Learn about the Goodyear Welt Method: What is it and why it is a good investment?

Most of JO BEAR’s current collection of shoes and boots, (except the hand-stitched medieval styles), are made with the Goodyear welt construction, which is considered to be the most sophisticated in shoe making. 

But what is Goodyear welt and how does it differ from other manufacturing processes? 

Historically fitting for JO BEAR’s Victorian reproduction boots, the Goodyear welt method was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr.  The welt, which is a strip of leather sewn around the bottom edge of the shoe, is both attached to the insole as well as the uppers. By doing so, the shoes can then be easily disassembled by any good cobbler, if any parts of the sole, welt or insole need replacing. As opposed to the most typical modern cemented (glued) construction which cannot be detached without damaging the shoe, our footwear can be endlessly renewed as the soles can be replaced over and over again, making them an excellent investment and sustainable purchase. Although the Goodyear process is a lot more time consuming, as it involves a lot more steps and a cork insulation in between the sole and insole, it also results in greater comfort for the wearer as well as a longer lasting shoe. 

Due to the careful selection of the full grain leathers we choose for the uppers, our shoes will develop a nice patina over time. The wooden heels, full leather insoles, cork insulation and metal shank midsole and leather outer soles are also all consciously selected to create a more durable, high quality product that makes them a very good investment, at a reasonable price. We also offer most of our models with an extra rubber half sole to protect the leather sole, so that the shoes are even more hard-wearing for everyday use.